Tibetan Buddhism

Local History in A mdo: The Tsong kha Range (Ri rgyud)

Abstract: 
A mdo local history is explored in this study of six little known monasteries along either side of the Tsong kha'i ri rgyud 'The Mountain Range on the Banks of the Tsong (River)'. This eastern frontier of the Tibetan culture zone has been neglected in Western language research, despite the important roles lamas and monasteries from this region played in Lhasa, Beijing 北京, and beyond. These monasteries are also critically important for their local communities, where they are vital sites for the maintenance of cultural identity, incorporating the teaching of Tibetan literacy, religion, and arts (painting, plastic arts, printing, and dance). 

Fortune Tellers (Nan Shan)

Some examples of the Daoist fortune tellers operating in front of the lower monastic complex at Nan Shan. Here, a man offers to read one's signs in both hands and face. The hand diagram on the right looks remarkably similar to the way hands are portrayed in Tibetan iconography.
Photographer: 
Matt Zito

Fortune Tellers (Nan Shan)

Some examples of the Daoist fortune tellers operating in front of the lower monastic complex at Nan Shan. Amongst the objects shown here is a woodblock for making talismans. I could not identify the 'gourd' on the right.
Photographer: 
Matt Zito

Temple (Nan Shan)

Rooftop sculpture atop the monastic complex of Nan Shan. Immediately to the right of the scene depicted in 'DSCN0437'. I find the tangle of wires particularly strange.
Photographer: 
Matt Zito

Temple (Nan Shan)

Looking back down the stairs which run up from Nan Shan's street entrance, past several monastic buildings, and will eventually join the mountain path headed to the summit. N.B. the exterior decorated with a dharmachakra.
Photographer: 
Matt Zito

Temple (Nan Shan)

A bell suspended from one point of the temple's roof. Perhaps this signifies a particular sectarian identity or ritual focus of the monastery.
Photographer: 
Matt Zito

Temple (Nan Shan)

Details of the architecture and re-construction process of the same building. N.B. the Three Jewels motif running along all sides. This would assumably identify the building as Tibetan Buddhist in affiliation but I also heard reports it is in fact a Chinese Chan site. In keeping with the possibility of its hybrid affiliation I have assigned it to both sects.
Photographer: 
Matt Zito

Temple (Nan Shan)

Looking up the steps at the foot of Nan Shan's lower monastic complex. The roof of the building pictured was undergoing reconstruction during my visit. Nevertheless, on a busy day the area teems with pilgrims, tourists, seemingly Daoist fortune tellers (see DSCN3771-2), and wafting incense.
Photographer: 
Matt Zito

Temple (Nan Shan)

Road sign directing traffic to the lower monastic complex of Nan Shan. Notable is its absence of an English translation. Perhaps this indicates municipal resistance toward the use of Nan Shan as a tourist site, or at least a different emphasis on tourism at the time of the sign's construction. Update: preliminary translation of 'ding xiang yuan' gives 'lilac park.' Truly there are impressive gardens in and around the monastery, though it is strange they should take precedence on this sign.
Photographer: 
Matt Zito